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Although the James II Coronation Cup is currently displayed in the V&A's New Acquisitions Gallery it will return to the Whiteley Silver Galleries for display with the coronation bells in 2010. It is hoped that in due course, a small touring exhibition of Coronation silver may be arranged, including this exciting new acquisition, to be shown in museums in the Cinque Ports of Dover, Hastings and Sandwich. Endnotes The fashion for Chinoiserie decoration on contemporary silver extended to toilet services and vessels used in the service of wine. The toilet service from Sizergh Castle, circa 1680, and the Basingstoke monteith racing trophy (1688/9), used for serving punch and chilling wine glasses (fig. 3 ), are both chased with Chinoiserie and displayed in the V&A's Whiteley Silver Galleries. (4) Jones, E. Alfred. Illustrated Catalogue of the Collection of Old Plate of J.Pierpont Morgan. London, 1908: pl.LXXIX, 33. Perry, Edward. Gift Plate from Westminster Hall Coronation Banquets. Apollo. Double Coronation Number, LVII, no.340, (1953): 198-200.
The chair and footstool covered with purple velvet used by Archbishop Juxon at the Coronation of Charles II, and given to the Archbishop after that Coronation, came to the V&A in 1928 and are currently displayed in the British Galleries. (24) I am grateful to Harry Williams-Bulkeley for bringing this to my attention. Marked by Francis Garthorne, it was subsequently in the Mulliner Collection and the Percival Davis Griffiths Collection and shown in the Park Lane Exhibition, 1929, no.55. It will be auctioned in London, by Christie's, on 20 November 2009 (lot 40)V&A: W.12 & 13-1928. Wilk Christopher, ed. Western Furniture 1350 to the Present Day. London, 1996: 68. In 1991 the V&A acquired at auction the footstool made for the king's use at the Coronation of George IV (on long term loan to the Westminster Abbey Undercroft Museum). (25) The James II Coronation cup and cover formerly belonged to J. Pierpont Morgan, an outstanding collector of paintings, manuscripts and decorative arts; (26) the V&A already has a number of pieces previously owned by him. The taste for Chinoiserie reflects the growing importance of European trade with China following the foundation of the London-based East India Company in 1600. By the 1670s the establishment of a trading base off Fujian resulted in large-scale shipments to England of admired Chinese goods. Such trade fostered a European market for furniture japanned in imitation of true oriental lacquer. Bed hangings and curtains of imported Chinese silk damasks created appropriate settings for such exotic possessions. By 1688, John Stalker's & William Parker's 'A Treatise of Japaning and Varnishing' was published to appeal to the growing taste for professional and amateur japanning. It was appropriately dedicated to Mary, Countess of Derby, Lady of the Bedchamber to the new Queen Mary II, daughter of James II and his first wife Anne Hyde. Chinoiserie was an appropriately exotic visual language for furnishings associated with the monarch. (5)
Figure 6 - Canopy, Spitalfields, London, England, 1727. Brocaded satin wtih patterning wefts of silver-gilt thread. 131.7 x 94,4cm. Museum no. T.184-1975 The Dean and Chapter of the Collegiate Church of St Peter will hold the ceremony and instruct the monarch in the forms, rites and ceremonies. Steeped in British sartorial tradition, morning suits are the most stately of formal attire for men, synonymous with weddings and events like Royal Ascot. There’s a sense of solemnity to a morning suit – that majestic sweep of the tails, the waistcoat beneath (never with the bottom right button buttoned up). Wearing one makes an impact in a way a lounge suit never can. It was only right that they’d make a grand appearance at the Coronation.
DO opt for a knitted waistcoat
For Coronation silver given to the Earls and subsequently Dukes of Ancaster, who served as successive Lord Great Chamberlain; to the Marquess of Exeter, Lord High Almoner at the Coronation of James II; to the Dukes of Norfolk in their role as Earl Marshal and Hereditary Marshal of England see Jones, E. Alfred. 'Some Coronation Plate'. The Burlington Magazine 70, no.410 (May, 1937): 240-247. Of course, there was only one man standing out in full ceremonial splendour on the day, but in a mark of respect for the momentous occasion, the male guests watching King Charles III’s Coronation put their best feet (and suits) forward too. Although the cup and cover are typical for the form at this date, and the armorials and inscription are standard for the 1680s, the 'Chinoiserie' flat chased decoration of figures supporting the canopy is of particular significance. Further research may demonstrate that the canopies used at James II's Coronation were of'cloth of gold' woven in China. Increased interest in Chinoiserie was inspired by the publication of recent travels in China by Johannes Nieuhof (1618-1672). His account of 'An Embassy from the East-India Company of the United Province, to the Grand Tartar Cham, Emperour of China 1665' , was first translated into English in 1669. (3) The caption to the engraving in Sandford's publication reads, 'A canopy of Cloth of Gold, like that of the Kings, to be born over the QUEEN by Eight Barons of the Cinque-Ports with Four Silver Bells gilt hanging at the Corners. It was born by 16 Barons of the Cinque Ports there being 32 in all'. Figure 3 - Monteith Racing Trophy by Robert Cooper, London, England, 1688-9. Silver, height 22.9 cm. Museum no. M.25-2002
This bears an inscription attached to the selvedge which reads 'June the 11th 1727 Part of the Canopy held over George II head by one of the free Barons of Sandwich, at his Coronation. The other half is in the possession of Mr. Baker the late member for Canterbury who was likewise one of the Bearers - woven in Spitalfields.'The earliest piece of silver in Morgan's collection was the small silver drinking bowl (1525-6) now in the Gilbert Collection, and displayed in the V&A's new Rosalinde and Arthur Gilbert Galleries. (27) In 1919 the V&A acquired an important collection of stained glass from J.P. Morgan's son. Examples are displayed in the V&A's Sacred Silver and Stained Glass Galleries. (28) King Charles is studious in his approach to his wardrobe, and that sentiment carried through into how the men lining up in Westminster Abbey interpreted the expansive dress code. “National dress, morning coats or lounge suits” was the official line, the latter a rather antiquated (but entirely correct) way to describe what you or I know as the standard corporate suit, and while some opted for this less formal approach, the majority of men favoured the full majesty of morning dress. Two of the barons, members of the same family, Cresheld and Gawden Draper, combined their share - probably one stave mount and one bell - which were melted down to make this commemorative cup and cover. As the combined weights of one mount and one bell were just under 36 ounces, and the cup and cover weighs just over 16 ounces, it is possible that two cups were made, one for each member of the family who attended the coronation. However, only one is known today. Less dad at a party, more ex-primary school teacher with an ankle monitor. Avoid. DO opt for a knitted waistcoat
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